The time “between the years” was our chance to visit the North Carolina coast, four hours from our temporary site here in Carrboro.

We stayed on the edge of Kill Devil Hills and Kitty Hawk, and took advantage of the latter municipality’s canine-friendly beach regulations to tire Quetzal out at the beginning and end of each day.

Between the doggie’s needs and the windy weather, we did less birding than we’d anticipated, but still visited a great many of what we were told were the best localities.

One surprise—it probably shouldn’t have been—was the number of lesser black-backed gulls on the outer beaches. Indeed, on our first walk at Kitty Hawk, the first flock of two dozen larids we saw was no less than fifty percent lesser black-backeds, a source of real astonishment just a few decades ago.
We also did some exploring farther inland. Mattamuskeet, windy and cold and with the sun in the wrong place of an afternoon, was a lot of fun all the same, and here we saw our first North Carolina anhingas.

There’s a real delight in forgetting, or not knowing, to expect so fantastic a bird on a trip and finding it nonetheless.
The swans were a similarly fine surprise. I knew we’d see some, but I’m quite certain that we saw by at least one order of magnitude more than my lifetime total up to that point: the tundra swan is a species I’ve seen regularly and in numbers only in southern New Jersey, with ones and twos and tiny flocks in the midwest and the northwest over the years. Here, this past week, there were hundreds, perhaps even thousands, on lakes and sounds and often at amazingly close range.

A nice end to the Old Year.








