Scouting Tuscany: WINGS Tour 2010
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My new Birds and Art in Tuscany tour will run for the first time next May 17-27, starting in Rome and ending in Pisa (the region’s major international airport). The approach is similar to that I take each year in Provence: birds provide the focus for the itinerary, but the experience is in getting to know a whole landscape, its history, its culture, and above all its art.
My co-leader Marco Valtriani and I spent a few days after my Provence tour scouting our route. It promises to be a good one, starting in the archaeological and natural riches of southern Etruria and ending up in the dramatically beautiful Apennines and Apuan Alps. Some images from some of the localities we’ll be exploring:

The tiny village of Branuccio, high in the Apennines.

The lobby of our hotel in Castelnuovo, tucked into the Garfagnana between the mountain ranges and along the Serchio, where Gray Wagtails flit beneath the city’s many bridges.

The garden, as seen from the pool, of our Castelnuovo hotel.

The Apuan Alps–wow.

The ceiling of the renowned church of Codiponte–and one of the proto-Romanesque capitals for which it is so famous:

Birders aren’t the only ones who enjoy the bright skies and warm days of Tuscany:

Living up to its name, Common Redstart is an abundant yard bird in Tuscan villages.

Even in the mountains, our birding will be relaxed and easy-paced, on wide, level paths and roads.

Mountain streams can be good birding; this one, at Equi Therme, produced Crag Martin and White-throated Dipper during our scouting. Three Peregrine Falcons appeared high above as we left, too.


Now rare over much of their former range, Red-backed Shrikes are reliably found in any open habitat. This is the male of a pair that was almost certainly nesting in the denser vegetation in the background.

It looks like snow, but it’s bright white marble at the edge of a quarry that’s been worked since antiquity.

There’s always time for a coffee break on a Birds and Art tour.

We’ll visit the fifteenth-century pilgrim hostel of San Pellegrino (not the source of the water!).

Here as everywhere else in Tuscany, we’ll be following in some pretty illustrious footsteps.

European Bee-eaters abound in coastal areas.

Orbetello Lagoon and the Argentario Promontory are major sites on our itinerary. They’ll both be crawling with migrants in May; on our June visit, notable species here included Common Shelduck, Eurasian Curlew, Stonechat, and Little Tern.

Not all culture is high culture, I suppose. (Anybody else remember the blue whale on the way to Higbee Beach?)

Our hotel near Manciano, where we’ll be spending the first six nights of the tour without the annoyance of packing and repacking, is a remodeled Tuscan estate.

And the views? Not bad.

This unassuming little pond just outside Albinia is famous for the rarities that have occurred there.

But on this visit we found the birding better at the old salt pans in Tarquinia. Those white dots are Slender-billed Gulls.

Italian Sparrows are pretty obliging, especially this male, tilting his head to show us his diagnostic crown pattern.

We’ll be eating very well indeed, both in restaurants and on a lavish picnic or two featuring local delicacies.

I hope you’ll join me next year. The tour already has several registrants, to my delight, and we’re going to have a great time.






1 Comments
June 26th, 2009 at 11:09 pm
Rick,
the last trip I guided for the Swedish company I used to work for (and which brought me to Provence and the Cevennes), was actually Tuscany. It was fantastic trip and though it was only for a week I had a great time. My mom joined and so did Elita (my wife). I had 31 people in the group! Good birds, many orchids (Ophrys), marvelous food, tasty wine and lots of culture. When staying in Lucca (between Pisa and Firenze), we did a slightly shorter walk one day and had the afternoon and evening free to make a fast visit to Firenze (Florens) and the Uffizi musuem (some of the finest renaissance paintings can be found here). I just checked, and the opening hours are now only to 18.50. I am pretty sure it was open later then (in 2000), but nevertheless it is certainly worth doing. One may book the tickets in beforehand and the last turn is at 16.45. Having two hours to see the museum works very well. One of the absolute highlights of the trip in my opinon. (I through it in as an optional and 25 of the 31 joined!)
Beeteaters and Rollers on several places on the route were highlights.
I am a bit nostalgic over Europe nowadays. Have not been back since then.
Hmm…come to think of it..maybe I should start organizing trips to Europe….
Turning 50 next year….maybe time to slow down the pace…
These hard core trips I often do are quite demanding.