Archive for April, 2008
Provence 2008: Arles
Posted by: | CommentsFor the birding visitor to Provence, no city is better placed than Arles, a charming and easy-going town that just happens to feature some of the finest dining in France and some of the greatest artistic and architectural treasures in Europe.
The evocative ruins of the Roman theater are flanked by the colosseum–still in use two thousand years after its construction–and the Romanesque splendor of St. Trophime. All around are shops selling everything from ice cream to colorful fabrics, and all of it just a few minutes’ walk from our hotel, a fact that we all took happy advantage of when it came time for meals.
My favorite appetizer at La Paillotte: salmon mousse with an invertebrate topping.
Arles itself is not a famously birdy town, but any walk around the old city, or even just the few minutes spent boarding the vans each morning, could be counted on for the common urban residents. Black Redstarts were generally the first voices of the morning, followed by Eurasian Collared-Doves and Jackdaws, often visible from our hotel windows overlooking the rooftops and church towers of Arles. Magpies cackled and coughed histrionically from the streets and the trees.
Blackcaps, Greenfinches, and European Goldfinches were equally vocal, though harder to see in the newly leafed-out plane trees where they fed. The occasional European Kestrel or Black Kite soared over, too, but the skies truly belonged to the Common Swifts, their screeching and keening the sound of the city morning, noon, and night.
Provence 2008: A New Model for the Ornithourist
Posted by: | CommentsLike all but the most sullen visitors to southern France, I fell in love with Provence the first time I laid eyes on it. I’ve been dreaming for years of showing this blessed countryside to others, hoping to give them a view into the uniqueness of a world that is as intensely cultural as it is ruggedly natural, as accessible as it is other.
And so a dozen of us set out to experience as much of the wonder of Provence as we could in a trip of ten days, combining some of the continent’s best birding sites with visits to cultural monuments representing nearly two millennia of European history. For many of us, it was a new way to bird, and I think that all of us came away from the experience with a far deeper understanding of this fascinating landscape than any “mere” birding trip or any sightseeing tour could offer.
Home to Summer
Posted by: | CommentsTransatlantic travel is always disorienting (the pun, of course, intended), and I was bemused and befuddled to wake up this morning to Tucson’s typical summer symphony–or rather a concerto, I suppose, with the insistent solo part played by a Brown-crested Flycatcher against an orchestra of White-winged Doves.
More anon about our 12 days in southern France!
Anna’s Ambitions
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Anna’s Hummingbirds are among the desert’s most conspicuous inhabitants right now, the females busy feeding plump youngsters and the males perched high, singing away in hopes of a second chance.
This distant photo shows the characteristic song posture of the male in his enthusiasm: head lowered, neck stretched, the very image of the “forward-leaning” young man on the move!
Birding in the Buff
Posted by: | CommentsWe’ve all experienced it: sitting in a meeting, or out on the sidewalk, or over a meal, we glimpse something interesting and reach for our binoculars. They’re not there. And as birders we blush, as surely as if we’d been caught with our pants down.
I love my Zeiss FL’s like life itself, and most birders have a similarly passionate relationship with their optics. But mitteleuropäisch glass and the beautiful views it gives us can, paradoxically, get in the way of our truly learning the birds; lost in the splendor of feathers, we can be tempted to ignore the bird-as-organism, and miss out on opportunities to learn more about our object’s habit and habits.
And so this morning a dozen Tucson Audubon Society members and friends joined me in an experiment. No binoculars, no scopes, no field guides: just a couple of hours simply watching the birds at Tucson’s Fort Lowell Park, concentrating not on details but on impressions, not on knowledge but on knowing.
It was tough at first, all of us instinctively clutching our chests when a bird flew past just out of naked-eye range, but it was a delight to watch–and to feel for myself–the anxiety slip away as we got used to looking at birds in a new way. The frantic search for Petersonian field marks was replaced with a relaxed but careful examination of structure, shape, and behavior, and when it was all done, we’d learned a lot about the 21 species we detected and identified on a bright but windy morning.
As I look back through my notes from Aprils past, we really couldn’t have expected more even with optical aids. Such wintering birds as American Wigeon, Ring-necked Duck, and Brewer’s Blackbird still lingered on and around the pond, while many of the common desert breeders were already busy with courtship and nesting. Male Anna’s Hummingbirds sang away, and a fledgling, hummer most likely of that species peeped loud at its nearby mother. House Sparrow nestlings were cheeping from their nests, too, and at least one of the European Starling nests in the old cottonwoods already harbored young, to judge from the neatnik adult that emerged from a deep cavity carrying a fecal sac. White-winged and Mourning Doves were singing, displaying, and flying to and from nests on light poles and in trees. A pair of Cooper’s Hawks nesting in a tall pine just north of the park gave great unaided views, the female cackling menacingly at us as the male perched silent nearby.
Those same Cooper’s Hawks provided, indirectly, the most amusing moment of a thoroughly enjoyable morning. I worried when I arrived before the start of the trip that we wouldn’t recognize each other without the double-barreled badges of the brotherhood. But that psychic birder-to-birder link worked just fine, and we had no trouble assembling. And it turned out that we not only recognized each other, but that there was something unmistakably birderly about our little troop to non-participants as well. While we watched Verdins and Cactus Wrens in a little patch of remnant desert, a car slowed, then stopped, and the driver rolled her window down to tell us that we were welcome to come in and see the Cooper’s Hawks nesting in her pine trees.

How’d she recognize us without our field marks hung ’round our necks? By structure, by habitat, by behavior, by flock habit and voice: just the same way that we knew our birds!









